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Overrated
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cupcakes.jpg
PASTRY, WITH ATTITUDE Blame Sex and the City for the the proliferation of designer cupcakes

CUPCAKES

These humble sweets once sat alongside their homemade brethren—Rice Krispie treats, lemon squares—at soccer team bake sales. But in recent years, thanks to Carrie Bradshaw, the "Lazy Sunday" guys, and people who wear leggings under their dresses, the simplistic dessert has been whisked from the field into the gourmet pastry case. The current incarnation of the overly frosted confection, as popularized by NYC's Magnolia Bakery, not only has almost as many calories as a Big Mac, it's also infantilizing. Cupcakes were invented for those unable to eat regular cake because they have tiny little hands and lack the motor skills to use forks, knives, or plates. Embrace your advanced coordination and palate and leave the minis to the tots.

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09/14/07



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