Bottom Feeder(continued)
HE WHO DENIED IT, SUPPLIED IT Careful, gentle seafood shopper (Photo: Getty Images) The cause of these unfortunate gastrointestinal disasters is usually escolar. The reason is simple and biological. According to Dr. Ian Reichelderfer, chief of clinical gastroenterology at the University of Wisconsin, escolar is laden with an overwhelming amount of wax esters, just like the ones found in notorious olestra, the original ruinous food additive found in Wow! chips and other miracle fat-reducing snacks of the late-'90s. Dr. Reichelderfer explains that the 20 percent wax ester content found in escolar causes the orange, oily discharge to blast out of some people. "It's like taking a big slug of mineral oil," he says. In 1990, the FDA issued a warning against Escolar exportation due to the unpleasant evacuation results. It was lifted a short time after the fish was found to be "nontoxic"The effects of escolar are well known by most fishmongers and chefs, but due to extremely flexible rules handed down by the FDA, they don't have to disclose its possible side effects. One fish distributor, Tim Lauer, of Minneapolis-based Coastal Seafood, has nothing but praise for the fish and admits that, anytime it was available, it was an easy sell. "Then some of our customers would have these, um, 'issues,' and we'd stop selling it," says Lauer. Soon, though, demand would outweigh complaints, and they'd restock, until finally, "It got to the point where we just decided it's not worth the risk. We stopped selling it a few years ago. It's a great-tasting fish, though."
HOOK, LINE, AND SPHINCTER In the past, Olestra-laden products lured consumers in with the promise of low-calorie snacking. Today, the Butterfish provides a similar, intestine-rocking seduction. The whole thing raises a serious question: Even though escolar lacks toxicity, shouldn't there be a more aggressive push by the FDA to encourage those who sell it to warn their customers? FDA representative Stephanie Kwisnek says yes and offers this add-on: "The advisory doesn't prohibit escolar from being served, but merely informs processors that there may be some unpleasant side effects from eating it and that they may wish to inform their customers. If FDA found that a seafood processor was misbranding escolar or that the fish was adulterated in some fashion, the agency could take regulatory action."
THROUGH THE LIPS AND OVER THE GUMS, LOOK OUT BOXERS, HERE IT COMES A tasty looking plate of Escolar "Report it." From there, the bureaucratic machine can offer the standard wrist-slaps, levying fines against the offending parties that will (hopefully) teach them a lesson about respecting their customers. Enforcement is additionally hindered by the fact that many diners most likely feel skittish about contacting a government agency with a complaint that "this fish made me shit my pants." Really, a customer's only recourse is to ask a vendor directly it if there are any side effects to eating this fish. The honest brokers will confirm that there are and recommend only eating escolar in small portions. Any establishment that serves larger than an eight-ounce portion is willfully putting anything you sit on in danger. For those of you who'd like to try it yourselves, Aquagrill is currently serving escolar as part of its prix fixe Valentine's Day menu. Just beware that by night's end you might be removing your pants for other reasons than you expected. READ MORE Today's Top Stories < BACK TO Features |
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