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Duly Noted
This Scent Smells

  • Specialty criticism can be inscrutable—those of us who like movies might be bewildered by the visual art criticism, sure. But really, perfume criticism. Man. For who? What a racket! Today New York Times chief nose Chandler Burr takes on Estee Lauder's new Sensous, and... it smells like something! And something slightly different than the last time he smelled it!

    Chandler Burr, for the record, is a very nice man, who clearly takes these things very seriously. But... well, let's let him describe!

    The perfume opens nicely on skin, a wood mixed with such a striking vanillic chewy accord (plus anise and pepper) that it reads like the smell of the firewood waiting to heat the oven of a pastry chef. The wood has bathed in spices and hot creams and kitchen air steamed with bubbling sugar.... But if Sensuous avoids copying extant perfumes (a serious plus) and states its case clearly -- a contemporary oriental -- it does so with a somewhat muted voice. I believe, but can't judge for sure, that the November iteration was reined in. There is no smoke from this wood. That might have been too edgy. In fact, the wood there is has been kept at such a low volume that the perfume morphs into a golden, accessible gourmand rather than anything close to a full-on wood concept (reference: Chanel's Sycamore). More pretty than striking.
    I... do not... know. But it definitely makes me want some sort of snack right now.

  • By Choire Sicha   08/07/08 12:45 PM
    Related: Chandler Burr, Duly Noted, New York Times, Style
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