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The Great Media Bacon Wars

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Who knew there could be so much anger and bad feelings over bacon? Salon's "Pork Week" has kicked off a bit of a scuffle over the Meaning and Importance of Bacon. Its Overness. Its Market Saturation. Its Essence. On Monday, Salon tried to define bacon's current cultural meaning. New York mag's Grub Street reamed them over it: "more tiresome than the bacon fetish it questions." Then—who knew this could turn ugly?—today Salon calls New York out on its DESPICABLE BACON-DISSEMBLING.

Last summer, New York magazine's food blog, Grub Street, commented that the arrival of a packaged product called bacon salt was the sign that bacon, as a foodstuff, had finally jumped the shark, that it had finally strayed into a new and unseemly level of self-parody, that it was being touted as much for its ironic or comic value (insert Homer Simpson slobbering sound here) as its flavor.

But after a few months passed, there it was again: bacon where it shouldn't be. It was in a cocktail, in a recipe for bacon-infused bourbon, right there in the pages of New York. Wasn't it supposed to be over?

It is true that bacon has appeared 59 times in the last three months over at nymag.com! Only a few of those entries have to do with Francis Bacon. WHY IS ADAM MOSS IN BED WITH THE BACON LOBBY?

By Choire Sicha   07/10/08 11:50 AM
Related: New York Magazine, Pop, Style, War Pigs
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